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You can install software that controls your fan's RPM, so that it kicks up sooner than Apple's asinine setting - which is when the computer is already way too hot, it's like Apple wants their systems to fail prematurely. Heat kills components, especially hard-drives, so it's all on you to do what you feel is right for your system to state the obvious.
I use and keep my system on a notebook-cooler. My system no longer gets burning to the touch. When i first got this thing, it was 60c idle, which is ridiculous. You can install software that controls your fan's RPM, so that it kicks up sooner than Apple's asinine setting - which is when the computer is already way too hot, it's like Apple wants their systems to fail prematurely. Heat kills components, especially hard-drives, so it's all on you to do what you feel is right for your system to state the obvious.
I use and keep my system on a notebook-cooler. My system no longer gets burning to the touch. When i first got this thing, it was 60c idle, which is ridiculous. If your going to push your machine hard a lot for long periods. (like gaming), you should always use a fan control program.
I use SMCFancontrol. It sits up in the top bar always showing my temp and fan RPM, and I made presets for different fan speeds so I can quickly click and change them if I want. I like to be proactive. If I know I'm starting a game that normally gets hot enough the fans need to spend 5000rpm to stay cool. I click it up to 5000rpm and start the game. Is this required?
No not really. But it will help the life of the electronics. Click to expand.In my experience (with many machines, including many PC laptops), yes it is. That's why they're not allowed to be called laptops any more. They're 'notebooks', because you can't use them on your lap! Most laptops get very hot.
But at least my Mac laptop won't get hot enough to burn while just browsing the internet, like some Dells and HPs I've seen. When I see my computer get to 80c (or 90c in Windows), it's not fun, but normal if I'm going to push it so hard. (By the way, fact about the MacBook Pros - if the metal is burning you, it's because the computer is cooling itself. My MBP feels hottest (especially near the screen, where the fans are) when the fans are high and the temperature is stabilising. That's because the heat is coming OUT. Get a stat monitor and check yourself if you don't believe me. When the metal isn't hot, and I think the computer should be, it's usually because the fans haven't kicked in yet, and the CPU is getting hot!
Then the fans come on, CPU temp goes down, body gets hot. I'd rather the heat came out than stayed in.). In my experience (with many machines, including many PC laptops), yes it is. That's why they're not allowed to be called laptops any more. They're 'notebooks', because you can't use them on your lap! Most laptops get very hot.
But at least my Mac laptop won't get hot enough to burn while just browsing the internet, like some Dells and HPs I've seen. When I see my computer get to 80c (or 90c in Windows), it's not fun, but normal if I'm going to push it so hard. (By the way, fact about the MacBook Pros - if the metal is burning you, it's because the computer is cooling itself. My MBP feels hottest (especially near the screen, where the fans are) when the fans are high and the temperature is stabilising. That's because the heat is coming OUT. Get a stat monitor and check yourself if you don't believe me. When the metal isn't hot, and I think the computer should be, it's usually because the fans haven't kicked in yet, and the CPU is getting hot!
Then the fans come on, CPU temp goes down, body gets hot. I'd rather the heat came out than stayed in.). You notice that a lot of people post threads everywhere about MBP's running 'too hot', but no threads to say that their MBP actually died or was damaged by heat??! The core of the problem is the manufacturing plants. What they do is squirt a big blob on the CPU & Heatsink & squish them together. This obviously increases their productivity, and increases our temperatures. The proper way to do it is to actually use far less, and spread it evenly on the heatsink, so it actually does it's job of conducting the heat, not blocking it as it is currently.
This has been a problem since I got my first Powerbook G4 back in 2005, but funnily enough it's still common practice. I use SMC Fan Control & crank it up to 6000 when I'm playing a FPS game. But really, how many people do you know where overheating has damaged their MBP's?
Reader Bruce Harris would like to get double-duty from a gaming device. He writes: I purchased a PlayStation 4 and an extra DualShock 4 controller for two-player games. I rarely use the second controller and wondered if I could use it to play games on my Mac. You can, though with some games you’ll need extra help. Before we get to that let’s start with the hardware configuration.
As you know, the DualShock 4 controller has a micro USB port on the back, just below the status light. You use this port to initially pair the controller with the PS4. But it can also operate as a link between the controller and your Mac.
Just string a USB cable between the two and the controller is ready to use. But, in some cases, you don’t need the wire. The DualShock 4 performs its wireless magic via Bluetooth so, in some instances, you can control your Mac games from across the room. To set up the controller for Bluetooth use, detach the USB cable, launch System Preferences, select the Bluetooth preference, make sure Bluetooth is switched on, and then press and hold the PlayStation and Share buttons on the controller until its status light blinks rapidly. The DualShock should then appear in the list of devices as Wireless Controller.
![Mac Mac](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125570202/907262729.png)
Just click Pair and you’re connected. Note, however, that not all games support a wireless connection. You can pair your DualShock controller with a Mac via Bluetooth.
Speaking of which, a word about compatibility. With some games, the connected controller will work from the get-go. For example, Feral Interactive’s works perfectly with the controller without you having to do a thing.
Other games, however, work a little bit or not at all. For instance, with Valve’s Portal and Portal 2 (available via ) you can’t use the controller to move around or look up or down, even though Steam itself recognizes the controller and lets you assign functions to it. And Aspyr’s is entirely unaware of a connected DualShock. So it’s really a matter of the original developer making their game compatible with these kinds of controllers. Because you could wait a long time for this to happen (in some cases, forever) you should consider taking matters into your own hands by using a third-party controller utility. One such utility is Chibata Creations’ $5.
With it you assign functions to the controller’s joystick or buttons. These generally come in the form of mouse movements or keystrokes. For example, you might assign the Mac’s W key to the forward motion of the left joystick and the Fire function to the controller’s O button. According to the developer's notes, wireless control from a DualShock 4 is not yet supported. If a game doesn't natively support your controller, use a tool such as Joystick Mapper to get the job done. Another option is OrderedBytes’ $25. This is a far more sophisticated utility that allows you to create triggered actions by stringing together building blocks.
If you want to go beyond the basics with your controller, it’s worth your while to download the demo and run through the tutorial to see just how powerful it can be. The upshot is, yes, you can use a controller like this with your Mac. If you’re an enthusiastic console gamer more comfortable using a controller than a keyboard or mouse it’s something I’d urge you to try. Have a question of your own? Drop a line to.